I have always loved surfing for the space that it gives me. Waiting for waves allows the mind time to wander and I find myself being able to finally breathe and feel free.
Yesterday was one of those days. The weather has been exceptional, forcing everyone to adopt a new slowness and the ocean offered a cool and welcome embrace.
On days, such as this, Sennen looks as though it could be a long lost sister of the Maldives, with its clear sapphire waters and white sand.
It was a small wave yesterday and that was fine with me. There was plenty of space too so I didn't have to hustle for waves and this gave me time to assess my surfing and also my life.
I like to pay attention to waves because the universe is made up of them. I think that the things I learn from catching them and my attempts to catch them can be applied to other things that I want in my life.
There are times when you can be entirely in flow with the ocean and that is amazing. It's like your body and mind and the universe are singing the same song. Instinct takes over and you glide into waves almost effortlessly. It is absolute bliss.
It's not always like that though. My absence from the waves means that I lack a certain amount of paddle power and when the waves are small you need extra energy and muscle to get you in.
I didn't have any revelations as such - please don't hold your breath for the meaning of life or the secret to everything. I did however, stay aware and mindful. Watching the waves, watching my mind and being aware of my own limitations.
So I started to adapt. To read the waves better. I started committing earlier to the wave - paddling faster, watching where it had the most power, keeping note of my position.
I learned. It felt good. My body was done.
I tore myself from the ocean, it's cool kiss goodbye sweet and soulful and walked onto dry land to play with daughter and my husband. A beautiful day. Perfect.
And so I try think how to apply that to my life. To be aware that conditions change, that timing is important. That there are moments when you need to put the effort in and times when you need to recharge.
Above all I saw how mindfulness and being able to adapt are key - especially in terms of work within the creative industry. There are waves there too. Trends. Seasons. Big swells and small swells.
It's a new ocean for me and I'm playing and enjoying my creativity. I'm watching and waiting. Learning where to place myself. Trying to accept things when things don't seem so easy. Perhaps I'm building creative muscles too. I have faith in this. That I will find a creative wave that propels me forwards and will lead to more creative stoke and opportunities.